From the South Florida Sun-Sentinel

Worth a trip

Got a hankerin' for a filet mignon burrito or deep-fried marsh critters? Gas up for a gustatory road trip.

by T.M. Shine

May 18 2005

In the movies, people will travel great distances for love and romance. But in real life, we mostly travel for food. We may go just a mile or two out of our way for the perfect calzone or voyage into a neighborhood whose only redeeming value is the restaurant that serves stuffed arepas.

The appeal of some food is so strong it can lead you off on a ridiculous detour. "I know we're going to Universal Studios, but can't we just stop for the catfish Reuben in Key West on the way?" you ask your traveling companion. Of course you can.

Following are a handful of food items from around the state that make rerouting your life worthwhile.

Delta catfish Reuben at Margaritaville Café in Key West: This crunchy, golden catfish sandwich is so good it'll make you forget your money is going right into Jimmy Buffett's filthy-rich pockets. Located at 500 Duval St. Call 305/292-1435 or visit www.margaritaville.com.

Chili con queso at El Toro Taco in Homestead: Found on the edge of Homestead's farmland community, El Toro Taco's queso dip is made with the tenderest green peppers this side of the Rio Grande. And the nachos are so light they sometimes levitate. Located at 1 S. Krome Ave. Call 305/245-8182.

Pizza at Big Apple Pizza in Port St. Lucie: This is the only place in Florida that claims to make New York-style pizza and actually does. The chain has 11 locations from North Palm Beach to Vero Beach and one in Valrico. Visit www.bigapplepizza.com.

Filet mignon burritos at Red Mesa Restaurant in St. Petersburg: Red Mesa works hard to create exotic cuisine with a sense of false bravado, but these burritos are simply throw-down-the-gullet-good. Located at 4912 Fourth St. North. Call 727/527-8728.

Chicken tenders meal at Hip Hop Fish and Chicken in Tallahassee: These tenders are prepared Chicago-style and served in large portions. Lines of people always snake out the door, but the fries and coleslaw make it worth the wait. Located at 1603 W. Tennessee St. Call 850/425-2609.

Conch fritters at Alabama Jack's in Key Largo: This is a mandatory back-road stop on any trip to the Keys. The greatness of these fritters can only be measured by the atmosphere and clientele, often a mixture of Hells Angels and square dancers. Located at 58000 Card Sound Road. Call 305/248-8741.

Pie at the Desert Inn and Restaurant in Yeehaw Junction: This place serves all kinds of eye-popping items -- turtle, frog, gator burgers -- but it's best to mosey up to the home-style pie bar and settle in. This neck of the woods may be called cracker country, but don't be afraid to try the meringue. Located at 5570 S. Kenansville Road. Call 407/436-1054 or visit www.desertinnrestaurant.com.

Hawaiian red, salt-baked Okinawan sweet potatoes at Bern's Steak House in Tampa: Bern's is to steaks what Joe's is to stone crabs, so make reservations and dress up. These sweet potatoes, which are served with macadamia nut butter, deserve your respect. Located at 1208 S. Howard Ave. Call 813/251-2421 or visit www.bernssteakhouse.com.

The arepas de maíz at Emiliano's Café in Gainesville: These corn griddle cakes are layered with a roasted marinated portobello mushroom, Swiss cheese, roasted tomatoes and caramelized onions and served with black-bean corn salsa and fried spinach tortilla strips. Located at 7 S.E. First Ave. Call 352/375-7381 or visit www.emilianoscafe.com.

The Marsh critter platter at the Marsh Landing Restaurant in Fellsmere: The platter includes deep-fried frog's legs, gator tail and catfish gold, and the establishment has been renovated Florida cracker-style. Located at 44 N. Broadway St. Call 772/571-8622.