SouthFlorida.com | City Link Magazine

Nektar De Stagni can be found in the back of her Pelusium showroom in the Miami Design District, hand-painting vintage high heels while Tom Jones croons from a stereo in the background. Her arms are covered in Sharpie marks charting out to-do lists for the day as racks of silky jackets, dresses and pants float around her.

"I feel like a crackhead when it comes to fashion," the 22-year-old designer confesses. "I'm always looking at it, thinking about it. I get so wrapped up in it, I get physically exhausted because I dream about it for days, weeks and months."

Even at the age of 7, De Stagni knew design was her destiny. "I still have the videotapes I recorded of CNN's Elsa Klensch," she says.

While most designers are tending to stick with structured slim cuts, De Stagni is doing the opposite. "The ultrafeminine, fitted-waist look is so boring to me," she says. "I like making looser-cut, A-line styles and shift dresses."

The designer named her line after the ancient Egyptian city Pelusium, which was a major center for fine-clothing manufacturing. The line consists of silk and brocade bubble skirts and knickers, bow-adorned tank tops and pinstriped, hooded jackets. "It's about the contrast," she says, "like putting rhinestones all over a white T-shirt with holes."

In keeping with her rebellious attitude, De Stagni's only addiction outside of fashion is rock 'n' roll. "I'm really into the '70s, glam rock, the Rolling Stones and David Bowie," she relates. "I'm always online searching for music. That influence comes out in my clothing, but in the subtlest way."

In March, her collection debuted at Gen Art's Fresh Faces in Fashion Miami show, and interest in her work has increased. "Pelusium packs a powerful punch, combining individuality and urban flaunt," Gen Art regional director Julia Brown says. "On July 27 at our Shop Miami event, we ended the show with one of her looks because we wanted to end on a strong note."

Considering De Stagni's knack for mixing contradictory style themes, it's a bit surprising to learn she has no formal training. "Four years ago, I started learning how to sew, got a teacher and bought every book I could find on the fashion business," she recalls. "Well, I'm still reading those books."

Some of what she read must have stuck. De Stagni, who was born in Miami and raised by her Peruvian mother and Argentine father, opened a showroom for her 2-year-old line eight months ago. She works on an appointment-only basis, though she does sell some garments right off the rack. She usually doesn't make more than five of any one piece. "I like to keep it limited-edition for now," the designer says. "You come into the showroom, find something you like, and I'll custom-make it in your size."

Such personalized service can get extremely expensive. "Some pieces are done in a day while others take weeks to complete," she explains. Still, De Stagni keeps the prices of her designs in the low hundreds.

In addition to women's clothing, De Stagni makes one-of-a-kind purses out of found materials; she constructed the lining of one bag out of a tie-dyed T-shirt. She also makes sparkly-black unisex neckties, designs jewelry and reworks vintage high heels. "The shoes are my latest passion. I hand-paint them and work with a shoemaker to resole them," she says. "I'm also hoping to develop a line of men's swimwear."

She draws inspiration from big-name designers like Stella McCartney, Nicolas Ghesquičre of Balenciaga, Karl Lagerfeld and Olivier Theyskens of Rochas but eschews the mall. "I like hunting for clothing," De Stagni admits. "I don't ever go shopping except for yard sales. I figure I can just make something. The only time I ever go to the mall is to buy basics like button-downs or slingbacks, but that's it."

The designer is currently obsessing over her spring-and-summer 2007 collection, which will premiere in late September. "It's going to be for women, but it's based on children's clothing from the '60s and '70s," she notes. "I only do one collection a year right now because that's all my budget allows."

Although she has sold some pieces in Paris, De Stagni is intent on strengthening Pelusium's visibility in South Florida. "Miami barely has a fashion scene compared to cities like New York and L.A., but it's getting better every day. We have Art Basel now, and real estate is hot. Fashion is the next gap we need to fill in."

The Pelusium studio is located at 155 N.E. 38th St., in Miami. Call 305/576-6695 or visit Pelusium.com.