Big Tomato Market Grill
8300 Pines Blvd., Pembroke Pines, 954/704-0100; and 9457 W. Atlantic Blvd., Coral Springs, 954/753-4244; www.bigtomatomarketgrill.com
The operators of this casual, inviting restaurant don't concern themselves with the pretentious trappings -- officious servers, forced quaintness and microscopic portion sizes among them -- that mar so many Italian restaurants in South Florida. The Big Tomato, while by no means lacking in faux artifacts and photographs from the Old Country, places the bulk of its attention where any good restaurant should: on its food. In fact, the restaurant runs the risk of overwhelming diners with the size and scope of its menu, and don't take that as a complaint. It would require many visits to sample everything the menu has to offer, from specialty pizzas and calzones to seafood, grilled and classic Italian entrées to salads, appetizers and focaccia sandwiches. Even the black-sheep cousin of most Italian restaurants -- spaghetti and meatballs -- is prepared with care here, served in a spicy homemade sauce and delivered in a portion so large the diner will have no choice but to ask for a box for the leftovers. The Big Tomato also has a sizable bar area, where customers can order anything on the menu and partake in a daily happy hour that stretches from 4 p.m. to closing time. See the restaurant's Web site for hours, daily specials and catering information.