Sunfish Grill
2761 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954/564-6464, Sunfishgrill.com
Plenty of restaurants serve quality seafood in South Florida, but none does so as beautifully as chef Tony Sindaco's Sunfish Grill. Sindaco opened a snug 52-seater on East Atlantic Boulevard in Pompano Beach eight years ago with his wife, Erica, but quickly outgrew the tiny digs. The couple finally gave themselves and their customers more legroom this summer when they moved south to the current locale just west of the Intracoastal Waterway. The ZIP code has changed and the square footage has more than doubled, but the luxurious seafood combinations Sindaco is known for remain. Calamari Provencale in a garlic, tomato and white wine reduction makes a great appetizer, and entrées include roasted escolar (white tuna) and a whole yellowtail served with braised artichokes. The presentation of dishes seems Spartan, but it's only a trick the eye plays on the stomach. Each item combines a bold mix of ingredients that prove filling and richly satisfying, especially when paired with a glass or bottle of wine from a list that once earned the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.
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