Review: Aruba Beach Cafe in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea
By Judith Stocks, Sun Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on July 1, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 1 Commercial Blvd., Lauderdale-by-the-Sea 954-776-0001 arubabeachcafe.com Cuisine: tropical/seafood Cost: inexpensive-moderate Hours: lunch, dinner daily; Sunday breakfast buffet Reservations: for parties of 10 or more Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Bar: full service Sound level: noisy Outside smoking: yes For kids: boosters; high chairs; kid's menu Wheelchair accessible: yes  |
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First impression: Chef Christopher Nealon's seafood, burgers and sandwich line reads like every garden variety oceanfront spot, he distinguishes himself with vibrant, vivid flavors.Ambience: Carnival bright colors and bamboo ceiling fans are no competition for the gorgeous Atlantic, which is a focal point from anywhere in the restaurant. Alfresco dining available.
Starters: So perfect are the escargots baked with tomato, garlic and Pernod ($7.99), we almost went for seconds. But then we would have missed Nealon's wonderful Caicos conch fritters ($7.99) with tequila remoulade; and luscious Caribbean conch chowder ($4.99), a Bahamian influenced tomato-based soup that is spicy, but not too spicy. The only setback was the Bimini bread at $2 per half loaf; $3 for a full loaf. These big fluffy as a cloud loaves are baked daily and served until they run out. We loved the challahlike texture and the partnering whipped honey, but so-called "Aruba glaze" was indiscernible.
Entree excellence: We couldn't resist the cheesecloth encased Caribbean clambake special ($23.99), a feast of shrimp, clams, mussels, crab, half of a Maine lobster and corn on the cob hovering over a pile of island rice with a perfectly seasoned seafood broth permeating everything. Just as good was a skewer of blackened silky scallops and nice size shrimp paired with an enormous blackened mahi mahi filet. Rice, black beans and a blend of fresh tropical veggies complete the $21.99 dish. The brown gravy ladled over a half roasted herb chicken ($14.99) is incredible. Smashed redskins and a pleasant sage stuffing help make it a hearty, satisfying and delicious choice. I'm also a big fan of Nealon's seafood Louie ($12.99), a dish almost extinct in today's restaurants. This version features whole large shrimp, surimi and langostinos in a light creamy dill ranch dressing. It's served over mixed greens, tomatoes, cucumbers and hard boiled eggs.
Sweet!: Coconut rum cheesecake with fresh pineapple and coconut rum is a delight, as is a properly tart key lime pie. Each is $6.99.
Service: Too bad an indifferent, non-attentive server made us feel more like annoyances than valued customers.
Insider's tip: Drop in on any Friday (only available at one of the three bars), and enjoy a complementary pig roast from 4:30-7 p.m.