Review: 84 Thai / Fort Lauderdale
By Judith Stocks
SunSentinel.com
Important: This article was last updated on October 16, 2009. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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First impression: Small, attractive and a soothing diversion from the nondescript aging shopping center where it's wedged between a Lundromat and grocery store. The menu read is standard Thai, with more than the usual amount of spicy offerings.
Ambience: A wall of mirrors creates the illusion of a bigger dining room than one that houses just seven booths and five tables. Tiffany-style lamps and a crystal chandelier mesh in an eclectic way.
Starters: The slippery rice noodles in a huge bowl of beef noodle soup ($8.95) are comforting, but even small strips of easy to chew beef add little to the flavorless broth. Ask for the tray of hot Thai spices to liven it up. The tiny shrimp/pork/chicken filled steamed dumplings (6 for $6.95) are another big snooze. Tom kah gai or coconut milk soup ($4.95) is a better pick with extra creamy broth, though it lacks that perfect fine-tuned balance between lime juice and heat. Or, try nam sod ($8.95), an assertively seasoned dish of ground chicken (instead of the usual pork), ginger, lime juice, red onion, scallion, straw mushrooms, peanuts and red bell peppers that tickles the palate.
Entree excellence: That main squeeze of Thai cooking, Pad Thai ($12.95-$17.95) has a sharp tasting sauce rather than the creamy peanut kind. That said, the kitchen redeems itself with assertively spiced curries and duck dishes. Our soft shell crab panang ($18.95), anointed with a bright, zippy panang curry textured by ground peanuts, hit our mouths like firecrackers. The light batter on the crabs remains commendably crispy, as do the green beans, peas, bamboo shoots and bell peppers that round out the dish. Duck — described as "duck cutlets" on the menu — turns out to be thick sliced, tender and boneless, with a delightfully crunchy outer crispiness. We sampled ours with sweet and spicy chili sauce tossed with red onions, bell peppers and Thai basil ($16.95). The welcome jolt from the chili sauce never overpowered the delicacy of the poultry and works beautifully for those who like vibrant flavors.
Sweet!: The lone dessert is the ubiquitous fried bananas with ice cream ($5.95).
Service: Respectful service provided by a single waiter who manages to keep up nicely even when most tables are filled.
979 W. State Road 84, Fort Lauderdale
954-462-5105
Cuisine: Thai
Cost: inexpensive
Hours: lunch buffet weekdays, lunch Saturday, dinner Monday-Saturday
Reservations: not necessary
Credit cards: MC, V
Bar: beer, wine
Sound level: quiet
Smoking: no
For kids: high chairs
Wheelchair accessible: yes
— Judith Stocks
Contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks at Judithstocksreviews@yahoo.com.