From the South Florida Sun-Sentinel

The Falcon House / Delray Beach

June 5 2009

116 NE Sixth Ave., Delray Beach

561-243-9499

thefalconhouse.com

Cuisine: American

Cost: moderate

Hours: dinner Monday-Saturday

Reservations: yes

Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V

Bar: full service

Sound level: moderate, unless there's live music

Outside smoking: yes

For kids: highchairs, boosters

Wheelchair accessible: yes

First impression: The 8-year-old Falcon House, set inside a 1925 cottage, had a face-lift earlier this year. Along with new lighting, art, paint and a kitchen, there are now white linens on the tables. (It's almost elegant.) Thankfully, it held on to its bohemian, neighborhood vibe. Many classic menu items remain, but chef Mike Millan has also added his touches.

Ambience: Whether you sit at one of the 62 seats inside or in the larger outside area, there's a funky ambience to the place that's a nice break from corporate-style restaurants. It can get loud inside when there's live music. Call ahead to find out what time it starts.

Starters: With a menu that includes sections called Falcon Firsts and Small Plates, there's lots here to start your meal. Classic Guacamole ($8) is indeed classic, unadorned and served with yucca chips instead of traditional corn chips. A very good Hawaiian Tuna Poke ($14) is the restaurant's version of tartare, mixed with toasted macadamia nuts and sesame seeds. You scoop it up with taro chips and dip into chili-scallion soy. Tuscan Vegetable Ragout ($11, or $5 as a side dish) is an almost ratatouillelike mixture of zucchini, yellow squash, eggplant and red peppers piled on top of a red wine mushroom risotto cake. It's a perfect vegetarian dish.

Entree excellence: The Big Plates section of the menu includes seven entries: burger, skirt steak, pasta, scampi, tuna, ribs and a good rendition of classic Steak Diane ($27), served with truffle whipped potatoes. Daily Specials add more choices. On the night we dined at the Falcon House, some very meaty South Fried Chicken ($15) was offered. Specials include wine pairings. I'd also recommend Off The Ave Sliders ($11, add $2 for fries): three Black Angus beef sliders with crispy onions.

On the lighter side: Light eaters will do just fine with those Small Plates or entree salads.

Liquid assets: Great beer menu as well as a sensibly priced and not overwrought wine list.

Sweet!: The letdown in an otherwise good meal. Why were the churro bites ($6) spicy? Perhaps the odd chipotle whipped cream? Apple cobbler ($8) was far too gooey and sweet. Was this canned apple pie filling?

Service: Youthful, but efficient.

Insider tip: Drinks are half price 5-7 p.m. weekdays. This is a great place for drinks as well as dinner.

— John Tanasychuk