From the South Florida Sun-Sentinel

Mykonos Greek Taverna / Boca Raton

Sun Sentinel

May 29 2009

Wharfside Plaza, 6897 SW 18th St., Boca Raton

561-338-3646

Cuisine: Greek

Cost: Moderate-expensive

Hours: Dinner daily

Reservations: Yes

Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

Bar: Full service

Sound level: Loud during belly-dance performances

Outside smoking: Yes

For kids: Highchairs, boosters

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

First impression: What do you say about a Greek restaurant that doesn't have classic pastitsio — pasta, ground beef and béchamel — at 9 on a Friday night? If you come on a busy night and want to party, however, Mykonos is the place for you.

Ambience: Mykonos needs freshening up. Too many years of grilling and dancing on the tables has started to wear on the place. Upholstery on the huge outside exterior area needs updating.

Starters: Greek salad ($8.95) or Chopped Greek salad ($9.95) are good shareable starters. Both depend on great tomatoes and feta, which Mykonos makes sure to serve. I only wish the lettuce was colder. Four of us split the Mykonos Combo appetizer ($19.95): melitzanosalata (eggplant dip), tzatziki (cucumber, yogurt, garlic dip), hummus (chick pea dip), dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), spanakopita (spinach pita), feta-stuffed roasted red pepper, stuffed portabello mushroom, Greek salad, grilled chicken kebab and grilled pita bread. The spinach pie was greasy, but much of the rest was fine. Still, this platter may be the way to dine here. It's too bad the restaurant charges $1.95 for extra pita.

Entree excellence: Lamb chops ($26.95 were delicious and tender, although plated in a kind of unattractive jumble with lemon-roasted potatoes and broccoli. The boneless breasts in Chicken Athens ($14.95) were overcooked and dry. Moussaka ($14.95), the classic dish of layered eggplant, potatoes, ground beef and béchamel, was a bit dry.

On the lighter side: Lots of seafood, including grilled shrimp, broiled snapper and grouper.

Sweet! Baklava ($3.95), tiramisu ($4.95) and Greek yogurt with honey and walnuts ($4.95)

Service: Our waiter seemed like he wanted nothing more than to be finished for the night.

— John Tanasychuk