RESTAURANT REVIEW
Shuck 'N Dive Cajun Cafe/Fort Lauderdale


By Judith Stocks

Important: This article was last updated on March 17, 2006. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.

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Restaurant and bar turnover is high, so please call ahead of time to confirm a business is open and that price and menu items haven't changed. Any food depicted in photos is not necessarily a dish served by a particular restaurant, but instead represents its kind of cuisine.
Drop into Shuck 'N Dive any old time. Chances are, you're bound to stumble on one big fais do do (fay-doe-doe). In Cajun, that's a Louisiana party -- and you can join in at South Florida's home away from home for the New Orleans Saints and LSU. The informality of the friendly crew, the pile of paper napkins and multiple bottles of hot sauce on every table just fit right in.

RESTAURANT INFO
Cuisine: American
650 N. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale
954-462-0088
Cost: inexpensive
Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Hours: lunch, dinner daily
Reservations: not accepted
Bar: full service
Sound level: moderate
Smoking: outdoors
Children's facilities: high chairs, boosters
Wheelchair accessible: yes
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Part of the charm is the use of cast-iron skillets and small cauldrons to serve food that never hits the "too spicy" bull's eye. The roux is cooked dark, and anything blackened has good flavor, though not the one-two punch of some.

Be sure to bring your roaring appetite -- it's a necessity with a range that covers everything from stuffed and dressed po' boys to boudin, etouffees, mudbugs boiled in Cajun spices (when available), or blackened whatever. And, if you need Cajun-to-Yankee menu translations, they've got that, too. It's all wallet friendly, though an occasional gem on the specials runs in the low $20s. While you're at it, try a frosty mug of Louisiana's own Turbodog ($2.75-$3.75), dark ale with a sweet chocolate toffeelike flavor. And let the kids tag along. They're always in attendance, which explains the 10 and younger menu.

Fried green tomatoes ($5.99) are listed under starters, but I could make a meal of them. Each forkful of crisp breading on thick sliced tart tomatoes seesaws pleasantly against crunchy chopped scallions and the smoothness of creamy mustard-based remoulade.

Like any good Louisiana cafe, oysters are not to be missed. They're brought in from Black Bay, La., to shine in black 'n' blues (compound butter, blackening spices and blue cheese, $7.99) and Bienville style (creamed onions, green peppers, bacon, garlic and pecorino romano, $7.99) -- little masterpieces to use as an excuse for another Turbodog.

They're freshly shucked -- six per order -- and each so perfectly cooked there's still liquor in the shell.

If you like soft textured sausage with a rice/vegetable background, the pork or crawfish boudin ($3.99-$6.99) is worthwhile; so is the experience of old-fashioned goodness with a shot of BAM!. It comes in every sip of Creole tomato soup ($2.99 cup; $4.99 bowl), with throat-tickling spicing. Or go for gumbo with the works -- pulled chicken, andouille and okra ($3.99-$5.99).

Most impressive is the kitchen's ability to fry. Tender, crunchy and grease-free oysters and fried shrimp, (try the combo with a half order of each, $8.99), hand dredged in house-made crumbs, fried to a crackle in clean, hot oil. The same expertise applies to soft shell crabs harvested from Vermillion Bay, La., ($12.99 for a sandwich or basket), and in Mississippi farm-raised catfish po' boy ($7.99-$8.99).

Casual eating means burgers so good they call for table-wide discussions of burger greatness. My favorite is the black voodoo ($8.99) -- a seared he-man-size filler-free patty slapped with jalapenos, horseradish, cheese, and the house spicy voodoo sauce, a recipe that's a well-kept secret. You can also have any of the house burger specialties made with 100 percent buffalo for $1 more. Burgers and sandwiches come with fries or tater tots (have the hot crispy tots) or slaw. Or, substitute corn on the cob or red beans and rice for $2.

Formal entrees include mahi Mardi Gras ($14.99 regular; $16.99 blackened) tucked under a blanket of creamy crawfish etouffee, or the mixed Cajun grill ($16.99), which delivers blackened chicken, andouille sausage, tasso and pit-smoked ham glazed in a spirited barbecue sauce that might be too zesty for some since it covers everything liberally.

Sipping chicory coffee from chubby mugs makes you realize Shuck 'N Dive is more than a restaurant. For fans of Cajun cooking, it's a state of mind.

Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.

If you would like to contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks, e-mail her at judithstocksreviews @yahoo.com or write to her in care of the Sun-Sentinel.