From the South Florida Sun-Sentinel

El Agave Restaurant & Tequila Bar / Lighthouse Point

February 20 2009

4480 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse Point

954-545-1441

elagaveplace.com

Cuisine: Mexican

Cost: inexpensive

Hours: lunch, dinner daily

Reservations: accepted but not necessary

Credit cards: AC, DC, MC, V

Bar: full service

Sound level: moderate even when busy

Outside smoking: prohibited

For kids: boosters, high chairs, menu

Wheelchair accessible: yes

First impression: For such a wallet-friendly spot, Mexican favorites are made with quality ingredients and expertly presented.

Ambience: Sequined sombreros and neon beer signs seem right at home against a turquoise and orange color scheme.

Starters: Complimentary chips and salsa go well with creamy guacamole ($2.95-$3.95) studded with onions, tomatoes and cilantro. House-made empanadas (2 biggies for $8.95) are models of flaky dough, plumped with seasoned ground beef, olives, raisins, onions and drizzles of red pepper aioli. Sliders (4 for $8.95) are deliciously adorned with creamy achiote sauce, tobacco onions and cool jicama slaw.

Entree excellence: We loved the salmon Riviera ($17.95), a thick achiote-marinated filet masterfully steamed in a banana leaf with onions and bell peppers. Fresh pineapple in tacos al pastor? Why not? Try the refreshing change of three soft tortillas ($11.95) filled with tender marinated pork, cilantro, pineapple, onions and cotija cheese. Chicken enchiladas poblanas ($12.95) are nicely capped with chocolate-rich house mole. Lighter fare includes Tequila Jack's salad ($9.95), grilled chicken breast fanned out over mesclun, poached pears, candied walnuts and gorgonzola. The salad comes with uneventful citrus vinaigrette, but I like it with the roasted pumpkin vinaigrette. Ask for the switch.

Service: Not only are the people in this restaurant menu savvy, but also personable and attentive. They really seem to care about your experience.

Sweet!: Aside from flan ($5), confections depart from standard Mexican fare via not too sweet individual banana bread puddings ($4.50), and lovely Kahlua mousse ($6), cloud light layers of chocolate, whipped cream and fresh fruit.

Liquid assets: Premium tequilas ($7-$45) take center stage along with tequila-based margaritas ($5.95-$9), including one with Chambord and wild berries.

— Judith Stocks