Cucina D'Angelo / Boca Raton
By DONALD KIM
South Florida Sun-Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on March 28, 2008. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
 |
 |
|
Angelo Morinelli is a well-versed chef. He amassed a wealth of experience working and traveling in Italy, then taking over his family's Long Island restaurant.He displays well-disciplined culinary talent and extensive knowledge of fine Italian wines, as well as skill at pairing wine with food.
Chef Angelo's restaurant Cucina D'Angelo has taken root in Boca Raton's Town Center Circle. This upscale Italian bistro continues to thrive in its sixth year of operation. It has proven to be a steadfast player, not a flash-in-the-pan trend.
Navigating the bustling Town Center Circle can be a bit daunting. The restaurant is tucked away in the center courtyard, making it harder to find.
The menu at Cucina D'Angelo stays faithful to traditional Tuscan Italian fare. It features a good selection of pastas, salads, pizzas, panini and heartier entrees. Veal and chicken dominate the meat dishes, and fresh fish varies daily. There are up to six additional daily features as well.
The staff is extremely knowledgeable with wine and can recommend several intelligent choices that are tailored to your meal.
The Frito Misto ($8) is a large plate heaped with lightly battered calamari and zucchini. It was plenty for a table of four or more to share. The calamari was acceptable but not too tender; the zucchini was very good.
Insalate di Arugula ($9) is large enough to share family-style for an antipasto, or could be a light meal in itself.
Arugula and plenty of not-too-sharp goat cheese are tossed in the wonderful house lemon vinaigrette and garnished with cherry tomatoes. It made a very light and crisply flavored salad.
Panino Caprese ($10) is outstanding. Fresh thick slices of buffalo mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto, tomatoes and light salad greens snuggled into the excellent Cucina D'Angelo fresh-baked focaccia. It is delicious and filling.
Melanzane Parmigiana ($14) is a well-prepared rendering of the standard eggplant parmesan. The eggplant still maintains a bit of firmness, but lacks the bitterness that undercooked eggplant may have. The light breading is unnoticeable. It is served stacked, lasagna-style, with sauce and cheese for an elegant presentation. Even though the portion is generous, it is accompanied by a side of pasta.
From the daily specials, we sampled the Rigatoni al Ragu di Carne ($16).
As one would expect, the pasta is perfectly al dente and the meat sauce was prepared with generous amounts of veal. Chef Angelo's pasta dishes are simple, high quality and very good.
Since this was a lunch visit, I didn't delve into the evening entrees; the items listed on the menu are standard fare.
I have no doubt that they are expertly crafted.
Write to dining correspondent Donald Kim at foodie@fishsticks.cc or in care of the Sun-Sentinel.
■■■½
Cuisine: Italian
5050 Town Center Circle, Boca Raton
561-750-2344
cucinadangelo.com
Cost: moderate-expensive
Credit cards: all major
Hours: lunch Monday-Friday, dinner daily
Reservations: recommended
Bar: full service
Sound level: quiet
Smoking: outdoor seating
Wheelchair
accessible: yes