Christine's/Fort Lauderdale
Important: This article was last updated on April 4, 2008. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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"This is delicious," we sputtered between bites of a square of tasso bread pudding dolloped with a creamy twirl of shrimp and crab remoulade, an amuse-bouche that served as an intro to executive chef Steve Shockey's achievements and set the tone for an evening at Christine's.From the get–go, the casual sophistication of this 3-month-old new kid on the block engaged us. So did the bar and live jazz performance areas separated from the dining room by a glass wall. You still catch the action, but the muted effect makes for soft background music, as it should be when fine dining.
Christine's, named for Christine Vitolo, who co-owns with entrepreneur Dan MacMillan, offers a short but sweet menu. Deftly balanced are Louisiana techniques, a bit of Asian and some culinary name-dropping along with contemporary buzz words like applewood smoked bacon and micro greens.
Thoughts of good gumbo (big bowls for $7) tempted us into sampling the chef's recipe crammed with thick-sliced andouille and a center island of jasmine rice wading in harmonious mahogany density. In the same vein, his Louisiana boudain crab cake, featuring jumbo lump, escarole threads, caramelized onions and crisp applewood bacon, is a treat at $15, though more crab would justify the price.
Look to salads for satisfaction, particularly a $10 one with radicchio, baby arugula, frisee, blanched whole almonds, Asian pears, tomatoes and brief moments of red wine-marinated goat cheese in light pear vinaigrette.
We took our waiter's advice and went for the wild game du jour — a buffalo rib-eye ($38). Cutting into its charred crust exposed perfect cooking with no gamey aftertaste and exceptionally good flavors from marinating with sage, thyme and garlic, an experience every bit as wonderful as promised. Plate mates are creamy potatoes dauphinoise, (the French take on scalloped potatoes) and asparagus cooked to a snap.
There's briny goodness in a $28 grilled Hawaiian snapper served over a mound of edamame, asparagus cuts, shiitake mushrooms and daikon radish tangles luxuriating on a puddle of delicate shiitake soy broth. A Niman Ranch pork chop is carefully grilled and tender, but lacks a wow factor in spite of the savory huckleberry demi beneath it or the commendable side of sweet potato hash laced with Swiss chard, onions, applewood bacon and roasted poblanos. It's $26.
Using Illy coffee in creme brulee ($7) is a good idea but didn't raise it much above standard issue, mostly because the sugar glaze was soft. What could be heaven, caramelized banana cheesecake with dulce de leche drizzle ($7), sounds better than it tastes. Order coffee and you get full-bodied French press ($7.50).
Christine's is likable, fairly polished considering its infancy, and warmhearted thanks to a highly accommodating staff and ownership.
Write to dining correspondent Judith Stocks at judithstocksreviews@yahoo.com or in care of the Sun-Sentinel.
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Cuisine: American
2671 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale
954-566-1919
christinesfl.com
Cost: moderate to expensive
Credit cards: all major
Hours: lunch/dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner Saturday
Reservations: recommended
Bar: full service
Sound level: quiet to moderate
Smoking: prohibited
Wheelchair accessible: yes