Taurus Steakhouse / Tamarac
Important: This article was last updated on August 14, 2009. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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6965 W. Commercial Blvd., Tamarac
954-933-0000
taurussteaks.com
Cuisine: Peruvian/steakhouse
Cost: inexpensive
Hours: lunch, dinner daily
Reservations: accepted but not necessary
Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Bar: beer, wine
Sound level: pleasantly balanced with softly background music
Outside smoking: no
For kids: high chairs, menu
Wheelchair accessible: yes
First impression: A bull's head outlined on the front window of a simple looking storefront is the first subtle hint of a kitchen specializing in Argentine steaks prepared Peruvian style.
Ambience: Dark woods and tan walls set an easy going mood. Pretty lacquered tables, spaced so diners have plenty of room, feature practical paper place mats.
Starters: First up are several delightful sauces designed to act as meal counterpoints and keep things interesting. Consider garlicky chimichurri, yellow pepper sauce with green onions, cheese sauce spicy enough to tingle lips, a red bell pepper sauce we ate by the spoonful, homemade mayonnaise and huacatay sauce made with its namesake Peruvian herb that tastes like a mint/basil combo. Chubby grilled Peruvian chorizo has skin that pops at first cut (2 for $6.50) and perfectly cooked brochettes alternate large charbroiled shrimp and mushrooms (2 for $8.50).
Entree excellence: Steaks have great flavor including the South American cuts served in rodizios. We bypassed picanha (beef round) and rump steak in favor of a familiar rib eye ($17.50), cut thin, tender as butter, and glistening in its own juices. I can't wait for another encounter with the meaty butterflied pork tenderloin grilled to textbook perfection, or the excellent lamb rib chops ($14.50 for 4), called "lamb ribs" on the menu. Chicken, so often a wallflower on menus, is well seasoned and rotisserie cooked until the skin is as crisp as parchment paper and the meat satisfyingly moist. A whole chicken is $13.50 or $8.50 for half.
Sides: The kitchen doesn't just trot out the usual sides, but takes extra steps to make crispy french fries, mashed potatoes from scratch and the absolute best thick red beans. Most entrees include one side and a pleasant house salad or crisp Caesar with a dressing ignited by lemon.
Sweet!: Flan celebrates the familiar with a decadent denseness that turned our table's non-flan lover into a fan. The luscious French specialty Bavarois (floating island) provides a light ending with its inches-high tuft of delicate poached meringue lapped in vanilla custard sauce. They're $5 each.
Service: You'll be in good hands with a staff adept at explaining the menu and providing lots of attention and enthusiasm.
Liquid assets: Sample house made fruity sangria ($16.50 per pitcher) or chug a malty Peruvian beer ($3.50) poured into an icy mug.
— Judith Stocks
Contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks at judithstocksreviews@yahoo.com