From the South Florida Sun-Sentinel

Tryst / Delray Beach

May 15 2009

4 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach

561-921-0201

trystdelray.com

Cuisine: American

Cost: moderate

Hours: lunch weekdays, dinner daily, bar service until 2 a.m.

Reservations: yes

Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V

Bar: full service

Sound level: loud inside

Outside smoking: yes

For kids: high chairs, boosters, menu items on request

Wheelchair accessible: yes

Overall: The former Sol Kitchen has been transformed into a kind of beer pub. Unfortunately, very poor service takes away from what might be a cool neighborhood restaurant. My Delray Beach restaurant scouts tell me they've had the same experience here.

Ambience: On a busy weekend night, the gorgeous outdoor patio is the place to be. The eclectically decorated inside dining room is pretty but noisy. Tryst is definitely a fun place if you're just having drinks with friends.

On the menu: There are "small plate" and "large plate" categories, but Tryst hasn't hopped on the shared plate bandwagon. Small plates are appetizers. Large plates are entrees.

Starters: The Iceberg Chunk with beefsteak tomatoes and bacon bits is served with a rich and creamy cracked pepper ranch ($9). I also recommend perfectly cooked Crispy Florida Rock Shrimp with Sweet Chili Sauce ($11).

The Bar Bites selections include marinated olives with citrus and bay leaves ($4) and roasted and sea salted almonds ($3), which tasted as though they'd come from the grocery store. Or you can try the fish tacos with cabbage slaw, avocado and lime mojo ($7), or house-smoked fish dip ($3.50).

Entree excellence: Entrees borrow from multiple ethnic traditions. Consider Spicy Chicken Pad Thai ($13) with shiitake mushrooms, snow peas and rice noodles, or ale-battered fish and chips ($14) served with tartar sauce or sherry vinegar. Say yes to vinegar. A special short rib ($24) was fall-apart tender. Chef Julian Greaves also makes a very good burger ($14), with high quality prime beef and crisp fries.

On the lighter side: How about chopped vegetable salad ($10; add $3 for chicken) with pine nuts and red wine vinaigrette?

Liquid assets: 75 craft beers, with 15 on draft.

Service: Dismal. The so-called Bar Bites ordered with drinks didn't come until halfway through our meal. We passed on dessert because we couldn't stand the thought of waiting any longer.

— John Tanasychuk