Review: AltaMare in Miami Beach
By John Tanasychuk, Sun Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on June 24, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 1233 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach 305-532-3061 altamarerestaurant.com Cuisine: seafood Cost: expensive Hours: dinner daily, lunch starting in October Reservations: recommended Credit cards: all major Bar: full service Sound level: moderate Outside smoking: yes For kids: high chairs, menu items on request Wheelchair accessible: yes  |
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First impression: After eight years, restaurateur Claudio Giordano added an "e" to the name of his restaurant AltaMar, moved down the street and expanded to 120 seats. He also hired chef Simon Stojanovic, a veteran of farm-to-table Michael's Genuine Food & Drink, who has stepped up the restaurant's use of local seafood. The result is a better-than-ever AltaMare.Ambience: This handsome room decorated with black-and-white photographs will remind you that independent, single-location restaurants are alive and well. It's inside a storefront on the quiet end of Lincoln Road, west of Alton Road — perfect for people watching but not too busy.
Starters: Local hogfish carpaccio ($15) with hearts of palm, orange, lemon and olive oil is a nice entry into the subtleties of Simon's way with fish. Likely local golden crab ($18) is simply prepared with lemon, oil and salt. Octopus ($15) is grilled and served with warm farro, chorizo, grilled lemon and perfect tomato. Salads are just as good. Imported bufala mozzarella ($16) is paired with Homestead heirloom tomatoes. Simple Bibb lettuce with radish, cucumber, endive and avocado is dressed in arugula vinaigrette ($10).
Entree excellence: While there was too much sage in expertly cooked, pan-seared African pompano ($29), served with risotto, Meyer lemon and pistachio, it was the only misstep. The chef grills local cobia ($30) to golden, but keeps the fish tender and moist inside. It's served with local watercress and tomatoes. You will not be disappointed if you veer from seafood, such as an Angus 14-ounce dry-aged strip loin ($49), served with wild mushrooms and a rich veal reduction. Harris Ranch boneless short rib ($28) is beyond tender and partnered with pickled pearl onions and whipped parsnips. Each plate is a work of art, not overly accessorized, just beautifully presented.
Sweet!: Pastry chef Crystal Cullison makes magic, from a boozy high-concept Deconstructed Tiramisu ($12) to a modern milk chocolate and salted caramel semifreddo ($9) to a classic warm almond tart ($9) with rhubarb compote and creme fraiche ice cream.
Service: Incredibly attentive and worth every bit of the 18-percent gratuity automatically added to every check.
Contact dining correspondent John Tanasychuk at jtanasychuk@sunsentinel.com or write to him in care of Sun Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.