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Review: Andros in Lake Worth
By John Tanasychuk, Sun Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on April 2, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 7012 Charleston Shores Blvd., Lake Worth 561-965-7377 androsrestaurant.com Cuisine: Greek Cost: moderate Hours: dinner Tuesday-Sunday Reservations: highly recommended Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Bar: beer, wine Sound level: moderate Outside smoking: no For kids: high chairs, boosters, menu items on request Wheelchair accessible: yes  |
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First impression: While Andros is a Greek restaurant, chef Adan Cardoso, who lived in Greece for many years, plays with tradition just enough to create new takes on old favorites. With complete dinners — soup, salad, entree and dessert — priced from $17.99 to $29.99, depending on which entree your order, it's the kind of restaurant you leave wondering how the owners deliver so much good value.Ambience: Adan and Debbie Cardos just expanded their six-year-old Andros to 80 seats. There are two comfortable homey dining rooms that belie the strip mall setting. My favorite room is populated with oversized booths.
Starters: Almost dinerlike soups the night we dined were either split pea or a tomato-based vegetable. Salads choices are either a serviceable Caesar or Andros Salad, an odd composed salad that included a stuffed grape leaf, a sliced of smoked salmon, feta cheese, a melon slice, red onions and roasted red pepper in vinaigrette.
Entree excellence: A special one night we dined was classic veal osso buco ($28.99), excellently prepared and served with marrow spoon. Greek lamb chops ($24.99) are grilled and never dry. Eggplant Alexandros ($17.99) starts with lightly breaded and sauteed eggplant that's layered with spinach, asparagus, muenster cheese and tomato sauce. Seafood is important here and that's especially evident in Aegean Seafood ($22.99), yellowtail snapper, Norwegian salmon, shrimp and calamari in garlic, oil, capers, black olives and tomatoes tossed with pasta.
Side issues: It's strange that many dishes are garnished with lettuce.
Sweet!: Sized-right desserts include flourless chocolate cake, poached pear or flan.
Service: Couldn't be better. It's nice to see servers dressed like pros in neck ties and vests.
Contact dining correspondent John Tanasychuk at jtanasychuk@sunsentinel.com or write to him in care of Sun Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.