Review: Chaiyo Thai Bistro in Delray Beach
By Charlyne Varkonyi Schaub, Special Correspondent
Important: This article was last updated on July 29, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 1400 S. Military Trail, Delray Beach 561-499-8572 chaiyothaibistro.com Cuisine: Thai Cost: moderate Hours: lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner daily Reservations: none Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Bar: beer and wine Sound level: conversational Outside smoking: no For kids: high chairs, boosters, menu Wheelchair accessible: yes  |
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First impression: Many Asian restaurants concentrate more on the food than the decor. Not Chaiyo. This little gem pleases both the palate and the eye. It's a family business lead by owner Joe Sunantaprawhit, and his head chef wife, Siripen Kaewthontkhan. The food, decor and the graciousness of the wait staff transported me back to when I studied Thai cooking in Bangkok.Ambience: This former Miami Subs has been transformed into a welcoming bistro. The changes may be simple, but have great impact. A carved wood wall from Thailand creates a welcoming foyer. Orange and green cloth is draped from ceiling lanterns. Fresh orchids and linen napkins elevate its style. Diners may chose booths topped with carved wooden elephants, traditional tables or low Thai tables with cushions.
Starters: The appetizer platter ($12.95) is designed for two but could easily serve three. It offers pairs of spring rolls, prawn rolls, chicken satay, beef satay, golden flower and crispy tofu served with plum sauce, cucumber sauce and peanut sauce. The kitchen takes the time to carve a carrot into an elegant butterfly. Standouts are the tender chicken breasts and flavorful beef satays dipped into one of the best peanut sauces we've had anywhere, and the crunchy but not greasy vegetable spring rolls. We would pass on the prawn rolls and crispy tofu, which tasted more commercial than homemade. The beggar's purse—rice paper filled with ground chicken, potatoes, onion and yellow curry—was too mild for our taste.
Entree excellence: Chaiyo produces flavors from 0 stars (mild) to 3 stars (spicy). We suggest anything with the mango curry sauce, a golden blend of heat and sweetness with large chucks of fruit. Our favorites include the curry sauce with pork ($12.95) or scallops ($14.95). The standout was the steamed sea bass with ginger sauce ($19.95). Eat it with the finely sliced vegetables on your fork to help balance the assertive brown sauce. Other good choices include ginger garden with pork ($12.95) and pad Thai with chicken($12.95). Be sure to ask for additional peanut sauce with the pad Thai.
Side issues: My sea bass was served with a salad. The house dressing, a creamy blend of sugar, mayonnaise and vinegar, went well with the dish but was more western in flavor.
Sweet!: I have never been a fan of most Asian deserts, but the fried banana with coconut ice cream ($5.95) was superb. The ice cream tasted just like the best I'd had in Thailand – with ribbons of fresh coconut laced throughout. The fried banana, drizzled with chocolate sauce, was soft and the wrapper was perfectly browned without being greasy. The black sticky rice with coconut milk, a pleasant combination of hot and cold, ($3) was less pleasing to my American palate.
Service: Staff, friendly without being overbearing, confirm why Thailand is called the "land of smiles." Water glasses are kept full and those other than your designated server are always willing to help – whether you desire another glass of wine or to have dishes removed.
Insider tip: Pay with cash and you can get a 10 percent discount. Wine is difficult to pair with Thai food. We suggest the 2007 Milbrant Vineyards Riesling ($26) from Washington state to balance the spices of the food.
Contact dining correspondent Charlyne V. Schaub at charlyneart@gmail.com.