Review: La Fontana in Coral Springs
By Judith Stocks, Dining Correspondent
Important: This article was last updated on May 12, 2011. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 2890 N. University Drive, Coral Springs 954-575-5502 lafontanapizzeria.com Cuisine: Italian Cost: inexpensive-moderate Hours: lunch, dinner daily Reservations: accepted but not necessary Credit cards: AE, MC, V Bar: beer, wine Sound level: quiet Outside smoking: yes For kids: high chairs, boosters, menu items on request Wheelchair accessible: yes  |
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Background: The chefs, owners and brothers — Spartico and Tony Tare — opened La Fontana three years ago after a decade with Spris on Miami Beach. Whether you opt for salad, pizza from the wood burning oven, a panini or something more elaborate, these chefs are never far away from their birthplace in Ferrara, Italy.Ambience: All seating is outdoors at bare tables with plastic chairs. An indoor dining area is on the drawing board. It's not exactly the setting you'd expect for food this good, but sitting under starry skies just feet from a fountain is part of La Fontana's charm. Enormous umbrellas strung with soft lights protect diners from inclement weather and create a peaceful, relaxing atmosphere.
Starters: Polipo e finocchio ($11.95) is a terrific carpaccio of thinly sliced octopus with arugula, shaved fennel and fresh oranges. Very good meatballs ($9.95) are deep fried and paired with quality feta, Kalamata olives, warm marinara and a feathery green salad you dress yourself with olive oil and vinegar.
Entrees: You'll never eat packaged pasta again, after you taste the handmade fusilli al ferretto in ground lamb sauce laced with tomatoes ($14.50). You expect filet mignon ($22.95) to cut like butter, but the other items on the steak plate may be even better: rosemary-infused balsamic vinegar cream sauce and house-made veal tortellini. The delicate folds of the tortellini are formed into fist size triangles holding a sumptuous veal filling. Fettuccine tossed with fresh vegetables and decadent truffle cheese ($14.95) is another good choice. In casual settings like this, it's a surprise to have fish dramatically presented. Our whole dorade grilled with fresh vegetables ($26.50) arrived on the same sizzling silver charcoal grill it was cooked on. It was filleted tableside. Thin crusted pizzas ($6.95-$12.50) are varied and unusual. Consider the diavola topped with spicy Italian salami. Or, try a montanara, with porcinis, air-dried beef bresaola and parmesan, or the buongustaio with sausage, gorgonzola, potatoes and onions.
Sweet!: Most of the $5.25 desserts are imports from Italy, but the Tares make their own gelato as well as nutellino, a baked-to-order treat of Nutella filled pizza dough.
Service: While the food is four stars all the way, service needs adjustments. Three different servers appeared at various intervals, all trying to take the same order.
Liquid assets: All imported from Italy and commendably not the usual cookie cutter selection.
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