Rosarios Ristorante / Boca Raton
By John Tanasychuk
South Florida Sun-Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on November 5, 2009. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
 |
 |
|
First impression: Sometimes restaurants try way too hard to be cool. Rosarios doesn't have to. Unpretentious hospitality, outstanding Italian classics (with a heavy American accent) and a simple but stylish dining room all create a near perfect dining experience. Oversized dishes are served family-style, but can be ordered in half portions.
Background: Owner Rosario Lanza ran La Viola in the same spot for 15 years before selling in 2008. He returned 14 months later — reopening in June — after the new owners failed to make a go of it. The menu is similar, although lower priced in keeping with the economy.
Ambience: There isn't a bad seat in the 170-seat room. Round tables, for four or even eight, are perfect for conversation.
Starters: Fried zucchini ($9.95/half, $14.95/whole) is crispy and served with lemon wedges instead of the typical marinara. Soups, from pasta e fagioli ($6.50/bowl) to escarole and bean ($6.95/bowl), are superb.
Entree excellence: Among the classic pasta preparations are a near perfect perciatelli Amatriciana ($13.95/half, $21.95/full). It's full of flavor but light with just enough pancetta to flavor but not take over. Spaghetti Bolognese ($13.95/half, $21.95/full) also is text book perfect. Rosarios' delicate version of Eggplant Parmigiana ($12.95/half, $20.95/full) is a measured version of a classic, with just the right amount of eggplant, cheese and sauce. Veal & Eggplant ($18.95/half, $25.95/full) combines thin slices of both in one dish. The veal and eggplant are lightly breaded and served with a light wine sauce.
Side issues: We couldn't resist Burned Broccoli ($12.95), roasted until blackened with just the right amount of oil and garlic.
Sweet!: Cheesecake ($6.95) and Chocolate Mousse Cake ($6.95) were so-so. Only tiramisu ($6.95) rose above ordinary.
Service: Old school friendly. Our waiter even told us when he thought we were ordering too much. You know you're at a good restaurant when the owner comes by multiple times during the meal to check in.
Royal Palm Place, 145 SE Mizner Blvd., Boca Raton
561-393-0758
rosariosristorante.com
Cuisine: Italian
Cost: moderate-expensive
Hours: dinner Tuesday-Sunday (opens Mondays starting Nov. 16)
Reservations: accepted
Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Bar: full service
Sound level: moderate
Outside smoking: yes
For kids: high chairs, boosters
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Contact dining correspondent John Tanasychuk at jtanasychuk@sunsentinel.com or write to him in care of Sun Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.