Review: Cafe Vico in Fort Lauderdale
By John Tanasychuk, Sun Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on November 4, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 1125 N. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale 954-565-9681 cafevicorestaurant.com Cuisine: Italian Cost: moderate-expensive Hours: lunch weekdays, dinner daily Reservations: suggested Credit cards: all major Bar: full service Sound level: conversational Outside smoking: yes For kids: high chairs, boosters, menu items on request Wheelchair accessible: yes  |
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First impression: More than 13 years after Marco Rodrigues opened with room for 28 diners, his much expanded 100-seat restaurant still feels like a neighborhood spot. That's because Rodrigues and his staff offer gracious service and excellent food at prices far below similar fine-dining Italian restaurants.Ambience: Intimate and comfortable, with framed photographs of celebrities throughout the restaurant. There's even a private room for parties.
Starters: While every table starts with complimentary bruschetta, we shared several other appetizers, starting with simple roasted peppers ($9.95) served with goat cheese and anchovies. The kitchen makes a very good meatball ($9.95), richer with the addition of fontina cheese and tomato sauce. The eggplant gets a little lost in the ricotta and mozzarella in the eggplant rollatine ($11.95), but it's a nice start to the meal.
Entree excellence: There are several dishes that Vico-ites swear by, and Lasagna Bolognese ($20.95) is one of them. It's a creamy creation with layers of house-made pasta, meat sauce and béchamel. Likewise, seafood ravioli ($23.95) is another favorite. Each ravioli is stuffed with crabmeat and ricotta that's then topped with lobster cream sauce. A papardelle dish with broccoli rabe and Italian sausage ($23.95) could be improved with better sausage, but the simple sauce of garlic and oil was perfect. Off the pasta list, try eggplant parmesan ($18.95), with just enough cheese and tomato sauce to assist the tender eggplant. Veal is served francese (lemon and white wine), Marsala or parmesan-style ($23.95). Marsala is my favorite with a silky sauce.
Side issues: There are several shareable side dishes and my favorite is the outstanding escarole and beans ($5.95), a hearty bowl of goodness. Non-pasta dishes come with sides of steamed broccoli, creamy sweet potatoes and a small bowl of penne with tomato sauce.
Sweet!: While many Italian restaurants forget that Americans love dessert, not so here. Coffee is fresh and hot. The shell in the cannoli ($7.95) is crisp and its filling is sweet, but not sugary. Likewise the pastry in the profiteroles ($6.95) is crisp and the dessert isn't overdone with chocolate. Tiramisu ($6.95) is also a winner — neither too eggy or boozy.
Service: Excellent. Bus staff made sure we didn't need our water glasses refilled or plates removed from the table.
Contact dining correspondent John Tanasychuk at jtanasychuk@sunsentinel.com or write to him in care of Sun Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.