Review: Don & Vinny's in Dania Beach
By Judith Stocks, Sun Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on May 13, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 419 E. Sheridan St., Dania Beach 954-922-8505 Cuisine: Italian Cost: inexpensive-moderate Hours: lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner daily Reservations: advised for weekends Credit cards: all major Bar: beer, wine Sound level: quiet to moderate Outside smoking: yes For kids: boosters, high chairs, menu Wheelchair accessible: yes  |
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First impression: I like intimate neighborhood spots like this one that do what's expected and then go one step further to light up the menu with standouts. That takes the passion of chef Vinny Carinci, who shucks clams moments before turning them into clams oreganata, peels gorgeous fresh pears seconds prior to adding them to arugula salads, and stuffs portabella mushrooms with crabmeat — the real thing. The "Don" in Don & Vinny is Don Herzog, who along with his son, Michael, are Carinci's partners.Ambience: Simply but comfortably outfitted, this small restaurant offers booths lining walls painted in muted tones to spotlight framed oversize modern posters.
Starters: Clams oreganata ($10) are a delight, with a delicate crunch from their well seasoned breadcrumb/herb crust giving way to plump juicy clams. Carinci cuts loose on tradition, taking standard cheese filled ravioli by giving them a quick char on the grill before serving them with a lovely tomato sauce flecked with fragrant fresh basil ($9). Pasta e fagioli ($5) is hearty and delicious, with beans and ditallini. A nicely tangy balsamic is the perfect accessory for a winning arugula and pear salad with gorgonzola and toasted walnuts ($11).
Entree excellence: You can come here for one of the delectable pizzas, and I wouldn't blame you if you did, but that means missing out on house specialties too good to pass up. Mull over any of the pastas and know that every strand, quill, tube, shell and corkscrew will be textbook al dente and that anything with shrimp delivers perfectly cooked pink beauties. Those shrimp are tossed with clams and a ton of crab meat in an impressive linguine Monte Carlo ($21). The seafood is doused in white clam sauce with clean briny flavors then served over a mound of pasta. Shells melanzana ($14) jumped out at us, with light marinara coating pasta shells mixed with fresh mozzarella and eggplant that melts into velvety softness. Another crowd pleaser pairs thin cut tender chicken breast with shrimp, onions and mushrooms in brown sauce enriched with marinara ($19).
Sweet!: The house-made Italian cheesecake ($6) has a nice citrus undertone. Tiramisu ($6) is less sweet than some, with a good mascarpone topping.
Service: Efficient, but the best part is the warmth that goes along with it. You'll feel like you've been coming here forever.
Dining deal: Served 4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday and 12-4 on Sunday, is homemade bread, soup or salad, entree, vegetable and potato or pasta, coffee or soda, and dessert for $12.95.
Contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks at judithstocksreviews@yahoo.com.