The Green Gourmet / Delray Beach
By John Tanasychuk
Important: This article was last updated on December 30, 2009. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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First impression: Chef Joey Giannuzzi spent eight years at Henry's, the restaurant at the other end of the plaza. Much of the same comfort food magic is on display at the Green Gourmet, but here everything is organic and natural, with lots of vegetarian and vegan choices. While eating in the restaurant is welcome — there's even organic beer and wine — it's just as much a to-go spot.
Overall: Given Giannuzzi's background, it's no wonder he hits two dining trends head on: farm fresh whole foods and putting together several small plates to make a meal.
Ambience: Green market chic, with just eight tables inside and out. Glass cases showcase his culinary works of art.
Starters: Soup ($4/cup, $6/pint, $10/quart) includes good tomato bisque and lentil. It's possible to make a grazing meal of small items called "sides & snacks." Hummus ($4) had just the right amounts of garlic and lemon. Mashed eggplant ($3) had a perfect smoky flavor. Caramelized cauliflower ($3) will have you reconsidering this much maligned vegetable. Every vegetable in the vegan ratatouille ($4) was cooked perfectly. House-made fresh mozzarella ($4/half pound) was melt-in-your-mouth fresh.
Entree excellence: The chef has a way with turkey. Moist turkey meatloaf ($4 per slice) combines light and dark meat as well as dried cranberries. Chicken meatballs ($3/each) are just slightly spicy, so you don't miss the usual red meat richness. Organic vegetable lasagna ($9) is cheese-less and I guarantee you won't miss it. Each vegetable is expertly sliced and stacked before baking. Wild caught Ecuadorian shrimp ($12) taste the way shrimp used to, not bland like so much that's served today. Brandt Farm's Bavette Steak ($9) is cooked rare so it reheats at home to medium rare tenderness.
Sweet!: Leave room for what you might call a grown-up carrot cake ($3), with a bit of caramelized sugar on the bottom of the pan. The pumpkin cheesecake ($3) was also incredible the night we dined.
Service: Fast and courteous.
One other thing: Food for take-out is packed in reusable cloth bags. Bring the bags back next time and you get 10 percent off your order.
Contact dining correspondent John Tanasychuk at jtanasychuk@SunSentinel.com or write to him in care of Sun Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.