Review: Hollywood Grill in Hollywood
By Judith Stocks, Sun Sentinel
Important: This article was last updated on July 8, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.
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 905 N. Broadwalk (between Michigan/Indiana streets), Hollywood 954-272-2525 hollywood-grill.net Cuisine: Armenian/Russian Cost: inexpensive-moderate Hours: lunch, dinner daily Reservations: advised for weekends Credit cards: MC, V Bar: beer, wine Sound level: moderate Outside smoking: yes For kids: boosters, high chairs Wheelchair accessible: no  |
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First Impression: Head to the beach for a casual encounter with some of the best food I've tasted in a long time. For the past four years, chef Hovich (Hovo) Petlyar —who hails from Armenia — and wife Zina Petlyar — who hails from the former Soviet republic of Georgia — have nurtured their under-the-radar spot featuring the cuisines of their homelands.Ambience: A fabric-draped Bedouin atmosphere and Armenian music whets appetites for an exotic meal just steps from the sand. Water misters and fans used to cool guests shroud the restaurant in a transparent misty cloud that takes on an almost magical aura at night. Seating for 38 is snug, but tight quarters make it easier to check out what everyone else is eating.
Starters: Introduce yourself to the cuisines by spending $18 (it's plenty for four or leftovers for the next day) on the ruby hued Russian/Armenian meat assortment. On the plate you'll find: basturma (air-dried spiced meat), pleasantly spicy soujouk (a sausage of ground meats), beef tongue, a hunk of slightly salty spongy Armenian cheese, whole scallions, radishes, tomatoes and fresh cilantro. Tradition calls for taking a little of everything and tucking it inside tissue paper thin lavosh for a dainty sandwich.
Entree excellence: Hovo's grilling is sheer perfection in shish kabobs or lamb chops. Just as good is a meaty filet of sweet snapper, the fish of the day at market price. We paid $20. The snapper is sauce free yet sensational thanks to expert seasonings and fresh dill. Marinated, pan fried cornish hens ($15) with wedges of irresistible herb dusted potatoes are very good. The hens are served with a side of pureed tomato sauce that leaves a spicy finish. I'm not a big fan of green lip mussels, but Hovo made me a believer. A $15 plateful brings plump beautifully seasoned pan sauteed mussels.
Sides: Try the lobio salad of marinated red beans, chopped walnuts, parsley and garlic ($6), or, plump Armenian dumplings filled with ground beef and onions ($12).
Sweet!: Dessert selections are limited during the summer months. "Our Napoleons are fragile in hot weather," explains Zina. Armenian cookies ($6) were a touch soggy when we tried them, but that's hardly sufficient grounds for staying away from the rest of the delicious food.
Service: Can be spotty if you don't speak Armenian. Just be patient and ask Zina to show you the ropes.
Liquid assets: Beer makes the best partnership for this food. Order a tall glass of remarkably smooth Latvian Ekstra Light ($6) or Baltika ($5), a dark Russian slightly sweet lager. For a non-alcoholic treat try the Russian Lemonade ($2.75), a refreshing pear-based fizzy drink.
Contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks at judithstocksreviews@yahoo.com.