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Review: India Garden in Coral Springs

By Judith Stocks, Sun Sentinel

Important: This article was last updated on April 2, 2010. Please call ahead to confirm hours, prices, dates and other information.

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IF YOU GO

10436 W. Atlantic Blvd., Coral Springs

954-752-2226

Cuisine: Indian

Cost: inexpensive-moderate

Hours: buffet lunch Tuesday-Sunday, dinner Tuesday-Sunday

Reservations: accepted but not necessary

Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

Bar: beer, wine

Sound level: quiet

Outside smoking: no

For kids: boosters, high chairs, menu

Wheelchair accessible: yes
First impression: The menu features dishes from several regions of India, including Indo-Chinese with influences from the Portuguese inspired Goa region and Sri Lanka. The food celebrates the interplay of texture, taste and temperature that defines Indian cooking.

Ambience: White linen tables sensibly covered in clear plastic are spread throughout a large airy room decorated with Indian artifacts. Some booths aren't particularly comfy, so consider changing seats if you happen on one.

Starters: Take your palate on a pilgrimage by adding South Indian dosas to your repertoire. Thin and crepelike, made from rice and creamy white lentils called urad daal, dosas can be eaten plain, like bread, or with a variety of fillings. One of my standards is the delicious masala dosa ($7.95), lightly stuffed with chunky potatoes and onions that are nicely spiced. Or, give tamarind eggplant a try; $6.95 buys a shareable portion of thinly sliced eggplant smothered in garbanzos, tamarind chutney, onions and yogurt.

Entree excellence: Tandoori specialties arrive on hot cast iron platters, including juicy chicken tandoori ($13.95) paired with a rich buttery tomato sauce for dipping. Fork tender lamb vindaloo ($14.95) has a bold chili-spiked sauce and Chicken Manchurian ($12.95) is boneless battered fried chicken in a subtly spiced brown sauce reminiscent of its Asian origins. Kerala fish curry ($13.95) is a king fish in reddish orange coconut and black tamarind sauce with curry leaves and mustard seeds. Yellow lentils are pureed to near creaminess in daal tadka ($10.95), cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices. Vegetable korma ($10.95), highlighted by cauliflower, peas, green beans and carrots, is definitively creamy in coconut cashew gravy.

Sides: Designed to be eaten with meals, Indian breads are integral to the cuisine. Of the nine options here, I like the naan bread basket ($6.95) with onion, garlic and butter. I also like channa batura ($10.95), a large luscious puffy pancake served with stewed garbanzos and coconut cream. The lentil based vegetable stew sambar is served with roti canai ($12.95), pan grilled bread with coconut chicken curry.

Sweet!: Try a cup of brewed Madras coffee ($2.50) paired with gulab jamun (sweet pastry balls in rose water honey syrup), or densely textured house made mango kulfi (Indian ice cream) with intense mango flavors. Desserts are $4.95.

Service: India Garden's weak link may be its service and limited staff. I like the stylish delivery of entrees on a rolling cart with fresh dinner plates but dislike that we're left to dump our own leftovers into take out containers.

Contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks at judithstocksreviews@yahoo.com