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Stephenie Meyer

Review: The riddle of Upland, gorgeous but unsatisfying

Review: The riddle of Upland, gorgeous but unsatisfying

 

★½

Stephen Starr won “Outstanding Restaurateur” honors for his portfolio of upscale eateries from South Florida to New York at the 2017 James Beard Awards earlier this week. Chef Justin Smillie has been showered with critical praise for his kitchen skills in New York, including at the original Upland. So how could things go so wrong at their Miami Beach outpost of Upland, which opened in November 2016?

I’ve been pondering the question since a mystifying recent meal. Upland started strong but turned into a real downer. It is a gorgeous place, its packed dining room and leather banquettes bathed in the golden glow of illuminated jars of Meyer lemons lining...

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