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I'm eating what?

I'm eating what?

Michael Shikany isn't the first chef to discover Miami's Wynwood Art District, but he is certainly the most ambitious. He may even be too ambitious.

That said, Shikany deserves to be the most talked-about restaurant in South Florida.

Chef Shikany describes what he does as "modernist cuisine." He borrows heavily from two once avant-garde cooking styles — nouvelle cuisine and molecular gastronomy — in which his tightly composed dishes put the emphasis on the essence of each ingredient. The result is always an adventure, if not a little contrived. Is it possible to taste the tension in some of the dishes?

Consider this entree, as it is written on the menu:...