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Diana, Princess of Wales

Fish and chips off the old block

Fish and chips off the old block

If the building that houses Bad Boys of England looks curious, it may be because it didn't start out as an English restaurant and pub. It was once a Phillips 66 gas station. Look hard enough, and you can see the outline of bays where cars were once serviced. A scruffy, red telephone booth sits where the pumps once stood. The odd, ramshackle building is what happens when a service station gets a Tudor makeover.

The restaurant opened 25 years ago as the King's Head Pub. Earlier this year, owner Richard Hill did some renovating to tone down its musty British pubbishness. He renamed it Bad Boys of England. There's more light in the main dining room. A big, outdoor space invites...