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Seasons Restaurant

Review: Le Sirenuse at the Four Seasons Surfside is a bumpy, first-class trip to Italy

Review: Le Sirenuse at the Four Seasons Surfside is a bumpy, first-class trip to Italy

 

★★½

Le Sirenuse Miami, a stunning Italian restaurant in the restored Surf Club at the Four Seasons Surfside, features Old World elegance and modern-day annoyance. White-jacketed servers, some in black bow ties and others wearing gold epaulets, sail through the dining room bearing drinks on silver trays and entrees under silver domes. It is a fantasy world melding European formality with South Florida’s playground past and present, a place where bottles of Cristal flow freely in the champagne bar and amuse-bouches of charcoal-smoked hamachi with truffle are artfully presented on skewers with a flourish.

But at meal’s end, those who want their virtual valet...

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